Sunday, August 19, 2012

Reflections of Hakodate


The two months I spend in Hakodate were the best of my life. Looking back on the experience, I think having an open and positive attitude was one of the most important reasons why I was able to fully appreciate this study abroad opportunity. Although I’m sure that my unhappy experience at Cambridge in the previous summer was key to helping to develop that attitude, Hakodate is such a wonderful little town, and HIF as a program is so carefully and precisely executed, that it really is difficult not to be happy. And I felt happy every single day I was there. There were rarely any lows, and on the rare occasions that I felt weighed down by the work, or felt frustrated by my inability to communicate effectively with my host family, the next day I would bike along the coast and the sea breeze would take away all of my worries.

Reflecting on those two months, I don’t think I learned as much Japanese as I imagined I would – I thought I’d come out of the program nearly fluent, and be able to read manga and watch simple television programs without the aid of dictionaries. I have to admit, I still can’t – the dictionary is a must. The main obstacle, above all else, is vocabulary. I don’t have a problem with what HIF has taught me, but I’ve come to realize that the study of a language does not depend on any set curriculum or textbook. Once you learn the basic grammatical structures and have a decent feel of the language, most, if not all of the progress that you make, will be dependent on your own efforts.

Two of my friends in A love to sing Japanese pop songs, and they studied the lyrics of dozens of songs and can sing them perfectly. They tell me that they can find all of the grammar structures that they learned in class in those songs, and more. Saying “I love to watch Japanese Anime and drama” is one thing, but watching it with Japanese subtitles, and freeze framing and taking down the new vocab and new grammatical structures, and (I cannot emphasize this enough) actually reviewing what you learned, is something completely different. One must be interested in the material to do these things, but by the time you’re doing daily reviews using Anki, and reading and re-reading your notes, what’s fueling you cannot be your interest for the material alone. You must have a strong drive and motivation for studying the language itself.

This all sounds really preachy, but it is what I’ve realized from these two months in HIF. I still have a long, long ways to go after HIF, and I look forward to the say when I can feel satisfied not only with my Japanese skills, but by my work habits and consistency – those are the things that carry over to other fields as well.

In terms of pure Japanese skills, I think I’ve always been rather good at speaking, and I’m especially proud of my ability to interpret the implied context of the situation (空気読める). By the end of HIF, I was very confident of my ability to get myself understood in daily conversation. I could begin conversations with ease, and find alternative ways of expressing myself if I couldn’t get through to my 相手 (person I’m talking to). However, language is a fickle thing. Just after a week of not using Japanese and staying at home, that confidence has diminished considerably. Again, I am reminded that perceived language ability is much less important than having consistent study habits that will actually help you improve.

Outside of academics, I was extremely fortunate to have met my host family, who felt like real family after these two months, and I became very good friends with the Chinese 留学生たち that lived besides us (which was slightly problematic since I had another group of people to speak a non-Japanese language with). While お婆ちゃん and  お爺ちゃん  were both extremely nice to me and I cannot complain, I felt slightly disappointed that there were no young family members of my host family with whom I could converse with on a regular basis. I really envied the HIFers who had middle school or high school children in their host families. Theoretically, お婆ちゃん’s two 孫さん (grandsons) are both my age and would have been perfect to talk to, but alas, they were both at college and I did not have the fortune to meet them.

Summer in Hokkaido is beautiful beyond description. Take any scenery, and add in the crystal blue sky, and the roaring of the ocean, and the cool breeze, and in it there is born a shade of transcendence. The food is unforgettable. Snaffles cheesecakes (why did I not discover them sooner!), the melt-in-your-mouth salmon slices at 函太郎, お婆ちゃん’s crab miso soup… Hakodate taught me how to enjoy every little moment in life – it is in the air you breathe, in the next bite you take, in what embraces your eyes once you turn the corner.

I want to thank 奥野先生 for always being adorable, patient and understanding. I want to thank my host family, for treating me like one of their own. I want to thank every one at HIF, for being so considerate and thorough, and for holding this program for twenty-seven years straight. Finally, I want to thank the Light Fellowship and Yale for making my summer possible. Without your generous support, I wouldn’t be where I am today. I am deeply indebted to all of those who labored tirelessly to help me enjoy my two months in Hakodate. These two months have been nothing less than unforgettable. ありがとうございました! 皆さん、サヨナラ – but this is not the end. I’m certain that I’ll be returning to Hokkaido, and to Hakodate in the future. Until next time!

Chris


So touched when Okuno sensei told us at the last show and tell that the 一番楽しかったこと for her at HIF was being with us... We're the ten little smiley faces at the bottom!

Me getting my certificate of attendance from 山崎先生

Feeling sad to leave HIF...


Here's the final speech that I made on behalf of all the HIF students to end this blog... It's been a fun two months and I hope you enjoyed my blog as well! :)



港祭り


August 1st to the 5th is the annual Hakodate Port Festival (函館港祭り). This year celebrates the 157th anniversary of the opening of the port of Hakodate, and the 90th anniversary of Hakodate’s designation as a city.

On the first day, there was a huge 花火大会, the scale of which easily surpassed the one that was organized by Hakodate Shinbun a month ago. I went with my Chinese 留学生 friends, and we were able to get what in my opinion were the very best seats, right out into the port besides the retired Aomori-Hakodate ferry boat (now a museum) 摩周丸. Thousands of people turned out. The entire harbor area was filled with people. There were rows of 売店, or booths, selling snacks from たこ焼き to 焼きそば. The weather was perfect. The cool evening breezing was intoxicating. As the fireworks lit up the sky, I sipped my fresh Sapporo beer and felt that I could stay forever in that very moment, it was so seamless, like the flowing of the tides, and so close to perfection.


Me and the Chinese 留学生たち!

Where we were sitting - perfect view of the harbor


Fireworks!!


The Mashu Maru at night
The second day consisted of a huge parade that lasted from about 4 in the afternoon to 9 at night. I actually ran into the parade purely by accident. I was biking home in the afternoon, when around the ぼにもりや  department store I saw crowds of people standing along the sidewalk, as if waiting for something. Then I saw the ever-so-conspicuous Cameron Breisch-san, a classmate from D. I parked my bike, went to investigate, and was asked if I wanted to see the parade. I figured, why not?

Breisch-san was there with his host mother, and she came well prepared. As the policemen began to tape off the road, she took out a blanket for us to sit on, and FOOD. One of the things that constantly surprise me is not only the hospitality, but the remarkable interconnectedness of the people of Hakodate. In this town, people care about one another, and keep other people’s interests in mind. After we sat down, we let all of the little children that were standing behind us into the front with their mothers, and started passing around food. Breisch-san’s host mom first took out three plates of sushi out for us to eat, then a box of KFC chicken pieces, then cake, and then dried fish strip, all of which she happily offered to complete strangers who were sitting next to us. The mothers of the kids in front also took out a huge box of Snaffles cheesecakes (the best cheesecake I’ve ever had, ever!) and began offering them to people, all of whom were total strangers. As we watched the parade and devoured all of the delicious food that was offered, I couldn’t help but feel totally in love with Hakodate and its wonderful people. Who wouldn’t?


Getting ready for the parade

Cute Japanese children!

Apparently the top attraction this year was a Disney parade - the kids in front of me were yelling "Mickey! Mickey!" at the top of their lungs!
Gooby pls
Acctualy is dolan
Delicious cheesecake that I got from a kind mom!

Breisch-san and his adorable host mother
Me and Breisch-san

On the last day we finally experienced the famous イカ踊り – the Squid dance! My host family dressed me up in the perfect costume too. All of us HIFers were registered with Russian University students and actually had a spot in the parade. Here are the pictures!


At the dance/parade!

Weaver-san... Way too excited. Also, what's with the backpack?
Not sure where the sign came from...
I gave Amy-chan my armor to wear!

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Nearing the End, After the End


Note: This blog post was written around a week ago, right after HIF ended. I'm bumming around at home in Shanghai now! I haven't had consistent Internet access during my time touring Japan after the program, and I've been quite lazy after getting home, so I'm just beginning to organize my writing and my thoughts regarding the past two months. Expect many more posts to come to conclude this blog! Thanks for sticking with me! :)

Chris
----------

As I begin writing this blog, I find myself on the Shinkansen line from Aomori to Tokyo. The train is stationary (perfect place to use that word – or is this where the word came from?). People are getting on and off at a stop I don’t know the name of. This is the northeast of Japan, probably not far from Fukushima, stilling living in the shadow of a disaster barely a year old. From the windows, the silhouettes of not-so-distant mountains blur into clouds.

View out from a Shinkansen window

Leaving Hakodate wasn’t easy. Although I could comfort myself in the thought that (and I assured Obaa-chan of this as well) I was looking forward to travelling in Honshu, looking forward to going home and spending time with my parents after that, and looking forward to going back to school and meeting all my friends (all of which is true), the city of Hakodate had long won my heart with its irresistible charm. Here I had the best two-month experience of my life, and although it gave me a very, very positive attitude thanks to which I could look forward to every coming day, I was sad to go. That’s how I felt when one of my Chinese 留学生 friends showed up at 6 AM outside my room to meet me for the last time before I left, when I visited Point Tachimachi for the last time to find theハナマス (Japanese Rose) in full bloom – as if the flowers had predicted my departure. As I saw Baa-chan and Jii-chan walking ever so slowly into the distance before I boarded my train out of Hakodate, the memories of the past two months came flooding through. There’s nothing to say except the most Japanese 言葉 of them all - ありがとう。

Baa-chan and a 留学生 friend at Tachimachi!
At Tachimachi for the last time
ハマナス in full bloom
In the next week, I’ll be touring Honshu with Abby. I might not be able to cover my travelling experience in this blog as well, but I plan to write another 2-3 blogs reflecting on my overall experience during HIF. Stay tuned, for now!